earthy; earthiness
An aroma or flavor evocative of damp, rich soil. earthy is typically used in a positive sense, unless the characteristic is emphatic, at which point it can become dirty.
The New Wine Lovers Companion, 2nd Edition, by Ron Herbst and Sharon Tyler Herbst. Copyright © (1) 2003, 1995 by Ron Herbst and Sharon Tyler Herbst. Reprinted by arrangement with Barron's Educational Series, Inc.