It's altogether fitting that when Long Island's oldest and most respected winery was up for sale some years ago, it caught the eye of a cosmopolitan Philadelphia couple who loved wine, had a respect for tradition and whose own noble roots dated back to ninth century Italy - Marco and Ann Marie Borghese. Since 1999, the first vineyard on the North Fork has been in the creative hands of Prince Marco and Princess Ann Marie Borghese, who promptly renamed it Castello di Borghese -- Castle of the Borgheses. The 2003 season marked the 30th anniversary of this founding vineyard of the Long Island wine industry. Ann Marie and Marco continue to apply new levels of energy, watching the vineyard evolve graciously under their stewardship.